It is at the western border of the Middle Kingdom, on the Silk Road, in Lanzhou, Linxia and Yinchuan, that we decided to put our backpacks. These central Chinese cities which proudly display magnificent mosques in Chinese, Persian, Turkish and Arabic styles are key stages in meeting the Hui people: the majority Muslim ethnic group in China, but where do the Hui come from? Why do they enjoy, unlike their co-religionists the Uyghurs, this relative freedom of worship? What relations do they have with the Muslim world and the various Chinese powers? So many questions that will lead us from meeting to meeting on the traces of this unexpected ethnic group.